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The Fate of Old Beijing: The Vanishing Hutongs

Chapter I – A Disappearing World

In the face of China’s rapid modernization, the world’s most populous country is struggling to preserve its cultural heritage, and nowhere is this more visible than in the ancient alleyways and courtyards of Beijing.

Once a ubiquitous feature of Beijing, the hutongs are more than simply housing; they are actually a way of life. Entire families live in single, crowded courtyards, often with no bathrooms. Yet despite the lack of modern amenities, the communal aspect to life within the hutongs means that few want to leave – even as their neighbourhoods are being demolished and redeveloped. UNESCO estimates that more than 88 percent of the city’s old residential quarters are already gone, most torn down in the last three decades.

In a three-part series, filmmakers Jonah Kessel and Kit Gillet explore the vanishing world of Beijing’s hutongs, the realities of life within the narrow streets, and the future for these culturally-irreplaceable areas of China’s capital.

CHAPTER ONE: For many residents, hutong life is all they have ever known, and their memories and lives are intertwined strongly with the old streets and alleyways. Yet as time has gone by, many of the courtyards have become overcrowded and the buildings themselves have deteriorated. Despite the cultural heritage of the hutongs thousands of them have been razed in the past decades to make way for urban development destroying centuries of history and contributing to the shrinking of the remaining hutong space.

The Fate of Old Beijing: CH. 1 – A Disappearing World from Jonah Kessel on Vimeo.

Chapter II – David vs. Goliath

In the face of China’s rapid modernization, the world’s most populous country is struggling to preserve its cultural heritage, and nowhere is this more visible than in the ancient alleyways and courtyards of Beijing.

Once a ubiquitous feature of Beijing, the hutongs are more than simply housing; they are actually a way of life. Entire families live in single, crowded courtyards, often with no bathrooms. Yet despite the lack of modern amenities, the communal aspect to life within the hutongs means that few want to leave – even as their neighbourhoods are being demolished and redeveloped. UNESCO estimates that more than 88 percent of the city’s old residential quarters are already gone, most torn down in the last three decades.

In a three-part series, filmmakers Jonah Kessel and Kit Gillet explore the vanishing world of Beijing’s hutongs, the realities of life within the narrow streets, and the future for these culturally-irreplaceable areas of China’s capital.

CHAPTER TWO: While hutong residents may not have the easiest lives, few want to leave the streets and alleyways they have long called home. However, with China’s current legal system offering few avenues of discourse it is hard for residents to save their homes after they have been slated for demolition. Some are torn down to make way for new subway lines but, increasingly, a large number are simply torn down to be replaced by large high rise buildings that primarily benefit the land developers and local officials.

The Fate of Old Beijing: CH. 2 – David vs. Goliath from Jonah Kessel on Vimeo.

Chapter III – Beyond the Alleys

In the face of China’s rapid modernization, the world’s most populous country is struggling to preserve its cultural heritage, and nowhere is this more visible than in the ancient alleyways and courtyards of Beijing.

Once a ubiquitous feature of Beijing, the hutongs are more than simply housing; they are actually a way of life. Entire families live in single, crowded courtyards, often with no bathrooms. Yet despite the lack of modern amenities, the communal aspect to life within the hutongs means that few want to leave – even as their neighbourhoods are being demolished and redeveloped. UNESCO estimates that more than 88 percent of the city’s old residential quarters are already gone, most torn down in the last three decades.

In a three-part series, filmmakers Jonah Kessel and Kit Gillet explore the vanishing world of Beijing’s hutongs, the realities of life within the narrow streets, and the future for these culturally-irreplaceable areas of China’s capital.

CHAPTER THREE: If Beijing’s hutong areas are to be retained in one form or another, decisions need to be made about whether to invest money in keeping the original structures or replacing them with replicas built in the same style but offering modern amenities – a move that many suggest destroys the soul of the buildings. While for former hutong residents forced or happily leaving their old homes, a new way of life beckons.

The Fate of Old Beijing: CH. 3 – Beyond the Alleys from Jonah Kessel on Vimeo.

(Blog posted by Jonah Kessel on Jan 24, 2011. You can see the original article by following this link to Vimeo)

Cuandixia Historic Village

On the ancient land of Beijing lies an ancient mountain village with peaceful tranquilities and distinctive characters. It is “the cultural pearl of ancient villages”—”Chuandixia Village”, which hides itself quietly in the deep valleys in the west of Beijing.

Chuandixia village lies on a ancient post road,90km far form Beijing. It was first built in the Ming Dynasty, where the Han’s Family has inhabited. After its development for several generations, it became a flourishing inn on the post road populated by many people. Its economics is dominated by farming, combining farming with trading,ploughing with reading.Chuandixia village, having a long history of several hundreds of years, has retained the beauty of traditional culture relics and vernacular environments.

Mountains surround Chuandixia village and streams flow through them.The village layout merging with the slopes is quite orderly and harmonic. About 70 various and flexible courtyards were built one by one following the terrain of the slopes. The houses were built with natural stones and wood, the steep stairs and streets paved by the rocks are all simple,natural and colorful. The poetic landscape,the ancient architecture, the emotional

Visit this website for further information about Cuandixia.

carvings and antithetical couplets all express the villager’s love of beauty and the desiring for culture. The environments, where the villagers have inhabited,ploughed and enjoyed themselves for generations are full of serenity, just like “a Land of Peach Blossoms”. In this village, the beauty of nature,artifacts and society have been combined to a unity, producing and idyllic drawing full of vitality. It reflects the traditional concepts of harmony between”human and nature”, “human and human”, “human and society”.

Cuandixia village has the rare value as the “live fossil”. It records the historical development, the intelligence and practicing of the ancestor during the construction of the village.Historical relics from different periods have been reserved.

Cuandixia village has experienced many things and changed much over the time. Although not brilliant any more, it’s still very attractive for its cordial, natural and vivid environment. The well-preserved village and the hilly courtyards,the intense depositions of vernacular culture and the captivating idyllic scenery are all astonishing and splendid!

The Imperial Academy

A man walks past the gates to Beijing’s Guozijian, or Imperial Academy. For centuries, the top young scholars on civil service examination came here to study Confucian classics and learn to write in a beautiful hand. Today, it is a quiet place to read a book or just sit by the pavilion where the emperor gave his annual lectures.

(This photo & caption is from The New York Times by Aaron and Mimi Kuo-Deemer)

Nanluoguxiang

Foreigners living in and traveling to Beijing frequent areas like Qian’men, Sanlitun and Houhai for shopping, drinking and other fun activities. However, there are many somewhat hidden places that have much to offer like Nanluoguxiang located in the Dongcheng District near the Drum Tower (GuLou 鼓楼).

Nanluoguxiang is a traditional-style hutong (alley) that has been renovated and filled with small shops, cafes, hostels and bars. It attracts both young and old, Chinese and foreigners with its range of offerings. A few of my favorite places around Nanluoguxiang are C Rock Record Shop (located on Gulou East Ave), Plastered T-Shirts, The Pass By Bar and 12SQM Bar. If you’re shopping for a more alternative, hipper style this area is perfect with a lot of music inspired clothing.

While Nanluoguxiang’s tourist traffic has dramatically increased over the past few years, the quint feel of this hutong and others around it are still perfect for a weekend stroll. For more pictures, please see our Nanluoguxiang photo album.

(Blog contributed by TheBJReviewer on July 5, 2011. You can see the original article by following this link to TheBJReviewer)

Related photos:

Nanluogu Xiang in the Dongcheng district, once a thriving neighborhood of mismatched courtyard houses and shopfronts, is now lined with T-shirt shops and cafes catering to tourists. (Photo: Shiho Fukada for The New York Times)

A newly renovated hutong house near Nanluogu Xiang in Beijing.(Photo: Shiho Fukada for The New York Times)

 

Beijing Hutongs

The Qianmen hutong area at twilight.(Photo: Ruth Fresmon/NYTimes.)

Hutongs, narrow lanes or alleys lines by courtyard housing, form traditional residential fabric in the historic center of Beijing. The Hutong — the term is derived from the Mongolian word hottog (water well) — came into being during the Yuan dynasty (1271 to 1368), when China was absorbed into the Mongol Empire. Most of Beijing’s remaining Hutongs date back to the Ming dynasty (1368 to 1644), which established Beijing as its capital city in 1421 on the site of the original Yuan capital.(From NYTimes.)

Starting in the 1960s, however, as Beijing’s population soared, three or four extended families were often packed into a courtyard house that had once been occupied by a single family. (Photo: Shiho Fukada for The New York Times)

One of Beijing’s many labyrinthine hutongs — neighborhoods made up of alleys lined with courtyard houses that wind away from the boulevards and public squares. (Photo: Shiho Fukada for The New York Times)

A man beside his partly demolished home in one of Beijing’s classic hutong neighborhoods. The rapid encroachment of the modern city has preservationists alarmed. (By Nicolai Ouroussoff for NYTimes)

Liu Heung Shing, a Pulitzer Prize-winning photojournalist, owns a siheyuan off a hutong just north of the Forbidden City. “Chinese believe that in a siheyuan you can feel the spirit of the earth,” he said, “because unlike in a high-rise apartment, you step on it every day.” (Photo: Shiho Fukada for The New York Times)

The hutong neighborhoods date to the 13th century, when Beijing’s chessboard grid was created. The layout of the neighborhoods, with public life spilling into alleyways and private life hidden behind brick walls, remained largely unchanged in the first decade or so after the Communist takeover in 1949. (Photo: Shiho Fukada for The New York Times)

Men play Chinese Chess on a new sidewalk in the Qianmen area, one of the city’s oldest neighborhoods. Plans for development have created a battleground in this area known for its opera houses, provincial guilds and bordellos. (Aaron and Mimi Kuo-Deemer for NYTimes.)

The entrance of the Côté Cour hotel.

The Drum Tower and The Bell Tower

The Drum Tower and the Bell Tower in Beijing were used for keeping and announcing time for almost 700 years. Drums and bells were used in China for over 2,000 years to tell the time and every major city had a drum tower and bell tower. From 1272 to 1924 the Drum Tower and the Bell Tower in Beijing were used for announcing the time.

Striking contrast between the Drum Tower (left) and the Bell Tower (right)

History

The two towers were originally built in 1272 during the Yuan Dynasty when China was ruled by Kublai Khan. At that time the capital of China was called Dadu not Beijing. The towers were destroyed by fire soon after construction and were not rebuilt again until 1420.

After the fall of the Yuan Dynasty and the establishment of the Ming Dynasty in 1368, Dadu was renamed Beijing, the city was extended, the Forbidden City was built and the city was laid out on its current north south axis. In 1420 the site of the towers was moved east to their current site on the most northern end of the north south axis.

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The Hutongs

A paramilitary police station on a hutong near Culture Square

Hutongs are small alley ways or lanes surrounding the Forbidden City in the old section of Beijing that are hundreds of years old. These hutongs provide a tantalizing insight into life in ancient Beijing and a glimpse of modern Beijing’s traditional life.

A typical residence in ancient Beijing was a walled compound with a courtyard yard in the center that was surrounded by living quarters that were built against the north east and west walls of the compound. The southern wall of the compound was the gateway and entrance to the residence. Typically one family of at least three generations lived in a residence and the courtyard was the focus point of the family.

A hutong is formed by a row of these traditional residences the same way a suburban street is formed by a row of houses and yards. The residences faced south for better light and heat so hutongs normally run on a east to west axis.

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